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The attitude and fabrics are taken from menswear, but the tailoring a higher and more defined waist, a longer jacket, a strong shoulder is calibrated to flatter the female form. A dandy aesthetic running through the mens velvet suits and fitted waistcoats was adapted for women with colourful Fair Isle-knit sweater dresses, and silk blouses with a painterly feather print. Pinterest Paul Smith accepts the applause of เสื้อ สโมสร the crowd at the end of his unisex catwalk show. Photograph: WWD/Rex/Shutterstock The show was staged under the glass roof of the grand Ecole Des Beaux-Arts, just a few streets from where Sir Paul Smith staged his very first fashion show in a friends apartment on the rue de Vaugirard, that time to an audience of 35 people, with friends as models and a soundtrack he had compiled on a cassette. But it was very British, not just stylistically but in the emphasis on British-made fabrics in many cases modern, lightweight versions of fabrics Smith first used in the 1970s. The brightly coloured feathers, which appeared on mens suit linings as well as silk womenswear, were inspired by an illustrated 18th-century book of British birds. In the face of the unstoppable rise of a sports aesthetic in menswear, Smith remains a staunch defender of the suit. People think that suits are stuffy, or that you cant move in them, he said backstage. But its not true. Soft, narrow suits were styled for life outside the office, worn with trainers and with poloneck knits. The Paul Smith show was followed by Kenzo, also showing mens and womens collections together for the first time.
For the original version including any supplementary images or video, visit https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/jan/22/women-on-the-march-at-paul-smiths-paris-menswear-show
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